Every year, as October fades into November, the Philippines witnesses one of its largest homecomings. Roads clog with buses and private cars, airports buzz with returning families, and cemeteries usually quiet, solemn spaces, transform into vibrant gathering grounds. This is Undas, the Filipino observance of All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days, often described as the nation’s “other Christmas.”
Unlike the hushed tones often associated with death, Undas is marked by life. Families converge at cemeteries not only to pray for departed loved ones but also to reconnect with the living. Tombs are scrubbed clean, candles flicker in the night, and flowers such as chrysanthemums, sampaguita, and even bright marigolds adorn gravestones. The atmosphere is both reverent and festive, a reminder that remembrance in the Philippines is never solitary but communal.
For many, the cemetery becomes an extension of the family home. Tents are pitched, folding tables set up, and meals shared. Children play tag among the tombstones, while elders swap stories of the past. Vendors line the streets outside, selling everything from candles and flowers to fish balls and halo-halo. The result is a uniquely Filipino blend of solemnity and celebration, where grief is softened by laughter and togetherness.
The practice is deeply rooted in Catholic devotion, introduced during Spanish colonization, but it also echoes pre-Hispanic rituals of ancestor veneration. Lighting candles, offering food, and gathering as a clan reflect the enduring belief that the dead remain part of the family’s spiritual circle. In this sense, Undas is not just about remembering, but it is about reaffirming bonds that transcend generations.
Much like Christmas, Undas sparks one of the country’s largest annual migrations. Millions travel back to their hometowns, braving traffic jams and crowded terminals. For many overseas Filipinos, it is a bittersweet absence, often marked by virtual candles and online memorials. Yet the pull of tradition remains strong, with families abroad finding creative ways to honor their departed.
In recent years, Undas has adapted to modern realities. During the pandemic, digital memorials and livestreamed Masses became common. Today, eco-conscious practices are emerging, including biodegradable candles, potted plants instead of cut flowers, and waste-free offerings. These shifts demonstrate how the tradition continues to evolve while preserving its essence: remembrance through presence.
To call Undas the “other Christmas” is not mere exaggeration. Like December’s festivities, it is a season of travel, reunion, and shared meals. But unlike Christmas, its heart lies in memory, an annual reminder that family is not only those who sit at the table today, but also those whose lives shaped the generations that follow.
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